The initial rituals end and the lights come on, instantly transforming the scene. Ceremony participants dressed as samurai enter, and at last it is time for the main event, the “rice-forcing ritual”. First come the monks who force the rice on the participants, dressed as yamabushi and bearing large cups of sacred sake which they aggressively press on the participants, telling them to “make sure you drink this dry”. As if that weren’t enough, their exaggerated motions when they pour the sake draws laughter from the spectators. Next, large black bowls heaped with rice are brought out, and again there is laughter. The bowls are known as “sanshomeshi” sansho being a measurement equal to 30 cups of uncooked rice. The rice is thrust in front of the participants’ faces, who are threatened with the words: “This is an offering from the Kumano Sansha Gongen [avatars of the Kumano shrines]. Show some respect and eat it!” Upon being further threatened with shouts of “Don’t hold your head high!”, the participants instinctively prostrate themselves, foreheads scraping the floor, and then—oh, no!—the bowls of rice are placed on the backs of their heads! There are even more laughs from those watching—it is an amusing festival after all. As if to deliver the final blow to the participants, who are now incapable of moving, a cry goes up “We’ll have you eat one bowl, then two, then 75! You see if we don’t. No mercy!” 75 bowls? Unbelievable!

Next to appear is a tray heaped with the famed vegetable delicacies of the Nikko mountains. Prickly ash pepper, chili peppers, daikons… Is this some kind of torture by hot food? This stuff is fine as an accompaniment for rice,but still…
In case you’re wondering what merit there is to being pushed around and bullied in this ceremony, well it seems that the belief amongst the participants and attendees is that this ritual creates long-lasting good luck for your family, preventing all misfortune and bringing good fortune instead. Something I’d be very thankful for. The ceremony finally comes to its conclusion when a headpiece made of rice straw is placed on the participants’ heads.

Just so they don’t keep the good luck all to themselves, after the participants leave the hall they take part in a ritual to share their good fortune with others. This is not just a sideshow, but an important part of the proceedings that brings the Gohan-shiki to a close. It’s charming to see the ceremony participants help the monks who had previously been their tormentors distribute offerings from followers and believers to all the visitors. I was also eager to get my share of good luck, and stayed near the front, but decided to withdraw because of the danger a crowd of unimaginably enthusiastic women posed to my newly-purchased camera. Good luck is not always something that is bestowed, sometimes it’s necessary to make a grab for it. With this thought I gave the only piece of good luck I’d managed to obtain—some assorted candies—to a foreign child standing nearby, and set off for home.

A ceremony to distribute offerings to everyone