From the airport, I picked up my rental car and headed straight for lunch at Shimujo, a local restaurant that specializes in Okinawa Soba. The restaurant is located in a traditional Okinawa house, which is also designated cultural property, and I couldn't have asked for a better start to my trip.
Traditional Okinawan residence
Tatami mats and low tables inside Shimujo
Okinawa Soba set lunch with handmade peanut tofu on the top right and rice on the bottom left
From there, it was a short drive to Shuri Castle, a reconstructed castle that is included as one of the UNESCO World Heritage designated Castles of the Ryukyu Kingdom sites. The castle stands in contrast to the ones typically seen on the mainland of Japan; there is no castle keep, and the main buildings are laid out in a square.
Shuri Castle was where the Ryukyu kings governed from until Okinawa became a Japanese prefecture in 1879. The castle was destroyed by fires and wars, and the current reconstruction was from 1992. The main buildings have a strong Chinese influence in their design, and offer visitors a glimpse into the workings of the kingdom.
Shureimon Gate at Shuri Castle
Walking towards the main buildings
Unfortunately, a devastating fire broke out in the main buildings of Shuri Castle at the end of October 2019 and destroyed almost all of them. As such, it is impossible to enter the main buildings now, and visitors can only walk around the castle grounds. It is however, still worth to pay a visit to the castle and go for a walk on its grounds.
Main buildings suffered major damage during the fire
Peeking at a small section of the destruction
Crumbling roofs
The fire burned strong
Main buildings laid out around the square inside
The grounds are free to enter and to walk around
After that slightly sobering visit to Shuri Castle, I got back into my rental car and headed to Munakatado, a local bakery. The drive took only about 20 minutes, and I was rewarded with a rustic bakery set in a residential area. The bread at Munakatado is made with natural yeast and baked in a wood-fired oven, and all I saw were warm golden hues of baked goodness when I entered the shop.
This hidden bakery-cafe was a good quiet spot for me to spend some time deciding on my next few spots. I imagine the place to be filled during the weekend brunch hours with children playing in the back garden and adults getting their bread and coffee.
Munakatado, blink and you might miss it
Golden and warm
My next spot was D & Department Okinawa, a local lifestyle shop and cafe, and one of only nine D & Department stores in Japan. The D & Department brand includes magazines devoted to each of the 47 prefectures of Japan and is focused on long-life products from all across Japan. Perhaps the most easily accessible store out of the nine is d47 located on the eighth floor of Shibuya Hikarie. The Hikarie location offers a museum, a travel store and a shokudo restaurant.
In addition to carrying products from the 47 prefectures of Japan, D & Department Okinawa also has a section selling local Okinawan products. I thought it was a great place to avoid the dime a dozen tourist souvenirs while purchasing local goods. I also took some time to visit the cafe on the second floor, where even more local handmade products were sold. This is definitely an all-in-one store!
D & Department Okinawa
I'll have one of everything, thanks
Home and lifestyle goods
Chairs and sofa sets on the second floor
Beyond this section lies the cafe
Got the local coffee blend which was delish
From there, I headed to Hotel Sunset Terrace, my accommodation for the night in Chatan. I had made dinner reservations at a restaurant located on the ground floor of the hotel. Staying at that hotel was a no-brainer, especially if I was going to drink, which I did. Remember that Japan has a zero tolerance on drinking and driving, and the penalties are pretty harsh.
Restaurant Ardor is an Italian-style restaurant which uses local Okinawan ingredients. It was a superb take on utilizing local food and creating a fusion of Italian, Okinawan and Japanese flavors. Dining at Ardor was without doubt one of my best meals in 2020 thus far, and even the drink pairing was creative and innovative.
All of the staff at Ardor are from Okinawa, and some of them speak excellent English. I felt really lucky to be able to dine there, not only was the food great, the ambiance was top notch too. It is recommended to call ahead before going, and reservations are advisable.
Look for the doors with the tentacles
Each service plate was hand painted by the owner
One of my top courses for the night, kabuccino, a soup made with local kabu raddish and topped with peanut tofu foam. So simple and so so good
Drinks were not limited to just wine, but also included sake
Ten-day aged squid lightly grilled with local pomelo and dried powdered squid innards
Sri Lankan black tea with black truffles and Sicilian port wine, both extremely good
Those drinks were paired with this local Agu pork ravioli and black truffles
Main dish was this 40-day aged Okinawan kuroge wagyu. It had an intense mushroom-y and nutty smell, kinda like Parmesan cheese
Did I mention that the drinks here were really good? These had tomato extract water and vinegar in them and my mind was blown
The clam risotto made me feel like I was home again
Bone broth with awamori, a local Okinawa alcohol, was amazing, and nothing like I had ever drunk before
Tiramisu for dessert. Yep, this is tiramisu, and it was good